Sunday, 15 March 2015

Why Thom Browne is a G

S/O to Style.com for the images, Fall 15

If I could cook, I would invite Thom Browne to dinner. Fuck it, I like him so much I'd just get a caterer and call it a day. It feels like right now in fashion, you can't really define a single movement, or classify certain fashion moments as trends because everything feels like it's all one big ball of fluff.

My fascination, borderline obsession with Thom Browne began a few years back when I was working in menswear and it is one that hasn't really died down. Browne is a certified G and gives me hope, knowing that he started on the shop floor at Giorgio Armani and led a design team at Club Monaco until the launch of his eponymous line, is admirable. In simple terms, the New York based designer is smart *DJ Khaled voice*, mainly because he recognises the ability to mix theatrics with form and function. He understands that although being dressed down is a thing right now, there needs to be an element of surprise somewhere, something that separates the catwalk from real life - otherwise we may as well stop fashion week altogether.

I always pick on my mum for watching cheesy Bollywood movies. This is mainly for two reasons, one being that I don't really understand Hindi and secondly because who the fuck has the time to sit through a four hour film? Each and every time I begin to criticise her choice to watch one, she simply replies that is her escapism; and not only hers but these films provide escapism for everyone in the village (at this point I assume she is referring to villages in India). For weeks now, I haven't been able to get the image of Browne's latest Fall 15 collection out of my head and that is what I believe makes a successful show; the ability to generate an emotional response from your audience in just under five minutes. It is particularly impressive considering I never even attended the show (don't worry Mr. Browne, I am sure the ticket got lost in the post, damn USPS) taking what I could by flicking through the photographs on Style.com.

This monochrome collection began dramatically as you would expect and opened unto a series of looks that made me feel a range of ways. It was as if widows were mourning the loss of colour in their wardrobes - Browne of course was inspired by the Met exhibition, Death Becomes Her - and was not afraid to show it. Eerie, darkly seductive and somewhat peculiar, the blurring lines between reality (in the significant cut of his tailored pieces etc.) and a dreamlike world really came into play to create something truly special. The best way I can describe his take on proportion is this: I like a man who can cut a suit for a gentleman whilst also knowing how to dress a woman.

Street style albeit inspirational for the everyday dresser like myself, has almost left us numb when it comes to being creative with individual style. I love minimalism as much as the next person but fuck I really do miss seeing that one piece that is so ridiculous no one could ever fathom wearing it, until one cuckoo from the nest does and we all decide we want to flock too. The focus has become too much on the piece; the perfect tee, the perfect jeans and whatever you call it and it seems the message of seeking something unique has been lost. A few years ago, Browne recalled to the NY Times that his father, an attorney was a great source of inspiration. 'The last thing he ever thought about was clothes, and yet somehow he always looked good' - damn straight homie, because surely this is the true definition of style. During a time where the fashion industry is completely over saturated, it really is important to pick out and praise the ones who influence you, no matter how great or small. So as I write this, while going through an entire bag of Popchips, I applaud TB for making a huge impression on me. You da man.

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